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Date: 12 Jun 2012
By: Joel Addams
Tag: Best Lenses for NIght Photography, Best Lenses for Shooting Stars, Canon, Canon 15 mm Fisheye, Canon 24 mm EF 1.4, coma testing, Joel Addams, Night Photography, photography, pictureline, Royce Bair
Comment: 6

Royce Bair’s Favorite Lenses for Night Photography

Photographer Royce Bair

Royce Bair has been a professional illustrative photographer since 1973, and an international lecturer on photography since 1982. His work has appeared in National Geographic, The Smithsonian, and on the covers of numerous books. As a photographer, writer, and entrepreneur, he has built and sold five photo-related businesses. He and his wife, Linda, are now shooting stock photography while they continue to share their knowledge and experience through workshops and blogs.

Canon EF 24mm f/1.4 L II USM

During my film days, my favorite landscape lens was a 24mm f/2.8 prime lens. Those who are familiar with my recent NightScape work, know that in order to maintain the stars as points of light, you need a fast lens in conjunction with high ISOs in order to maintain exposures that are less than 30 seconds –otherwise you blur the stars (producing star trails). I rarely stop down to greater than f/3.5, and prefer f/2.8 where possible, which is wide-open for most prime lenses,and for the better zoom lenses.

The problem with shooting a lens wide open is that stars can really show off the faults or aberrations of a lens, especially “coma.” Comatic aberration causes point sources, such as stars, to appear distorted –appearing to have a tail (coma) like a comet. These coma “tails” are most apparent near the edges of a photo. The good news is that 50% of the distortion goes away when a well-designed lens is stopped down by one stop, and about 80% goes away by two stops. Unfortunately, with my night photography, I can’t afford the light loss that comes with stopping down from f/2.8 to f/4.0 or f/5.6!

This is the reason I purchased the Canon 24mm f/1.4 lens. As you can see from my own tests on point sources of light, this lens is fairly well-corrected by f/2.8:

Canon 24 mm COMA Test by Royce Bair

And, if I get in a pinch and need more light, it produces acceptable results at f/2.0. But the real beauty of this lens is the bright image it gives you in the viewfinder. You can imagine that composing in near pitch black is made so much easier with this brilliant, f/1.4 lens! Here’s a recent Milky Way photo I took with it in Zion National Park at 4:00 in the morning. The amber glow on The Watchman is coming from the lights of Springdale city!

The Watchman at Zion National Park, Utah by Royce Bair

Although this lens is designed for full-frame sensors, I find a lot of use for it as a candid portrait lens on APS-C size sensor cameras, i.e. my Canon 7D. On these smaller sensors, the lens performs similar to a 35mm lens (going from an 84º angle of view to about 63º). Shooting wide open is awesome! You focus on the eyes of an active child, and the back of their head is already out of focus, with the background in a non-distracting blur. This same thing applies to close-up nature photography, like the blue flax wildflowers I photographed at f/2.8.  Such selective focus in a variety of situations makes these lenses useful for a variety of subjects besides my favorite night shots.

Blue Wildflowers by Royce Bair

Canon EF 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye

The Canon EF 15 mm f/2.8 fisheye lens is my favorite night photography lens because it allows me to include more than twice the sky as my 24mm lens (180º vs. 84º), and because it’s really two lenses in one. Although the heavy barrel distortion from this 15mm fisheye lens creates a special effect that is liked by most people, I can remove that distortion with software if I choose, giving me a view somewhat similar to Canon’s EF 14mm f/2.8L II USM lens, which has a fairly undistorted 114º angle of view. Here’s an example of what I mean. Below, is another shot of The Watchman and the Milky Way, taken from the foothills west of Springdale, Utah at 2:00 in the morning (light pollution from the city is lighting The Watchman). This is 15mm fisheye view without any distortion correction:

The Watchman by Royce Bair (before dewarp)

In the next image, I left the barrel distortion alone on the left side, but did a partial correction on the right side using Photoshop’s “Edit > Transform > Warp” function:

The Watchman by Royce Bair (after dewarp)

Although a more complete distortion correction could have been accomplished with software, i.e. DxO Labs, I’ve found this is not always as aesthetically pleasing as being more selective via Photoshop. In summary, these two lenses do a great job in getting the effects I want when I shoot these nightscape images.  A fast lens is important, but I often don’t use the maximum aperture on the fastest lenses by Canon.  Using apertures around f/2.8 can get enough light for my images and avoid some of the aberrations that occur with ultrawide apertures.

For other tips, tutorials, and future workshops from Royce, you can subscribe to his Your Photo Vision newsletter.

 

RELATED ARTICLES

How I Got That Shot – Royce Bair Shooting Nightscapes
Shawn Reeder’s Yosemite Time Lapse
How I Got That Shot – Jack Dykinga in the Sonoran Desert


6 Comments
  1. Ray Majoran June 12, 2012 at 11:36 am Reply
    Great article, Royce! Can you tell us what ISO and shutter speed you used for those pics as well? Keep up the great work! Sincerely, Ray
    • Royce Bair June 18, 2012 at 8:19 am
      The horizontal, fisheye photo was taken at ISO 6400 - F/3.5 - 30 seconds. The vertical photo (24mm lens) was taken at ISO 8000 - F/2.8 - 15 seconds. To better understand why I use different times, ISOs and F-stops, subscribe to my newsletter via the above link.
  2. Beau Kahler June 12, 2012 at 11:51 am Reply
    Great write up! I have been wanting to buy the Nikon equivalent 24mm f/1.4, looking forward to some night time shoots this summer!
  3. NABPhotos June 13, 2012 at 9:37 am Reply
    I understand the fast lens to capture little COMA trails of the stars, especially when shooting night photography, but I've found that shooting fast aperture like f2.8 for landscapes I get a blur and distortion on the outer edge of the lens. I get this with Canon 16-35 II f2.8 lens. So my question is how do you not get blur edges when shooting fast aperture at night?
    • Royce Bair June 18, 2012 at 8:42 am
      Each lens has its own set of aberrations, built into its design. Before I buy a lens, I check out places like http://www.the-digital-picture.com/reviews/ . Once I make the leap, and purchase the lens, then I run my own tests to see where (which F-stops) that lens performs best. I often have to compromise in the field, because of the amount of light I need to make the correct exposure, and the time limitation (# of seconds I can use in order to not blur the star for that particular lens). The Canon EF 15mm F/2.8 Fisheye performs much better wide open than the Canon EF 24mm F/1.4 LII does wide open. I can stop the 15mm down one stop (to F/4) and 80% of its coma is gone, whereas it takes two stops (down to F/2.8) for the 24mm to reach 80% correction. HOWEVER, since the 24mm started out at F/1.4, the 2-stops (@ F/2.8) it took to correct its coma, still gives me more light reaching the camera's sensor than the 15mm does @ F/4, with its 1-stop correction. (Maybe this is why the 24mm costs $1,800, and the 15mm only costs $800 :) For more tips, subscribe to my newsletter via the above link.
  4. Andrew March 5, 2013 at 7:11 pm Reply
    Just wanted to let you know what a great little write-up this was. I've been chasing coma for a couple of months now and this is one of the most helpful explanations I have read! Great examples as well!

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